Upkeep’s Guide to Retinoids

If you’re reading this blog, you’re probably a savvy beauty enthusiast. You always wear SPF, you wash your face religiously (no makeup wipes!), and you know all about peptides, vitamin C, and AHAs. But there’s one type of skincare product that might still be kind of confusing for you: retinoids. 

You know they’re some of the most effective anti-aging ingredients on the market. And you know you’re supposed to use them. But where do you start? What do all the different percentages mean? Plus, you’ve heard retinoids can be really irritating, and the thought of flaky, sore skin puts you off trying them.

But we believe that with the right information, you can get great results from retinoids without prolonged irritation. So we’re breaking down everything you need to know about retinoids. Better skin awaits on the other side. Let’s get into it. 

What are retinoids? 

“Retinoids” refers to a class of skincare ingredients that slow down the aging process. They come in both over-the-counter and prescription formulations. Retinoids are a version of Vitamin A you apply directly to your skin. They work by speeding up skin cell turnover. Skin cell turnover slows down as you age, causing wrinkles and uneven skin tone. Retinoids trick your skin into behaving like a younger version of itself. They increase collagen production and even out your skin tone. Retinoids also heal active acne, fade acne scars, and reduce sebum (oil) production. Depending on the formulation, you can use them for acne or for aging concerns. When used consistently, retinoids give you clearer, more even, firmer skin. Retinoids slow the signs of aging and prevent new wrinkles from forming. It sounds like magic, but it’s not–it’s science!

Retinoids are man-made and vegan. They were first approved by the FDA to treat acne and signs of aging in 1971. We’re always excited to see what’s new-and-next in the industry but sometimes a product is a classic for a reason. 

How do I use a retinoid product?

Retinoid products can be irritating at first, so it’s good to start low n’ slow. Start by applying the product once or twice a week for a few weeks and gradually increase the number of applications. You should apply a retinoid daily for best results. 

When you first start, you may experience redness, sensitivity, and purging (your breakouts get worse instead of better). Don’t freak out, and don’t stop using the product. Think of it as your skin clearing out everything that’s old or gross, so it can make way for better skin underneath. After about a month at most, this process should subside and your skin will start improving. If you stop now and start again later, you’ll have to go through this whole process again.

As a rule, don’t use other active ingredients (like glycolic acid or vitamin C) during the first month. And make sure to always wear your SPF–retinoids make you more sensitive to sun exposure.

Once you get through the adjustment period, you can start using other actives again. But don't apply them at the same time of day. Most retinoid products are applied at night, so apply your vitamin C serum or AHA product in the morning.

Don’t mix your retinoid with moisturizer or SPF. This can make it harder for the skin to absorb it. Apply it to clean, dry skin, and then layer your other products over the top. If your skin is ultra-sensitive, you can apply a thin layer of moisturizer first, then the retinoid, then more moisturizer. But it absorbs best when applied to clean, dry skin. 

What are the different types of retinoids? What do the percentages mean?

There are two things to consider when buying a retinoid product: the type of retinoid, and the percentage of retinoid in the product. If you’ve never used retinoids before, more is not better. Start mild and work your way up. This minimizes irritation. Retinoid products come in cream, gel, serum, and even oil formulations. Depending on your skin type, you may prefer one product formulation over another. But each type of retinol product is effective with consistent use.

Retinyl esters:

This class of ingredients is the weakest of all the retinoids. This makes them less effective than other kinds of retinoids, but it also makes them less irritating. If you’ve never used retinoids before, a product containing retinyl esters is a great place to start. Many drugstore brands have retinyl esters products.

Retinol:

This is the next step up in strength. This is also a good choice for beginners. Start by applying once or twice a week and ramping up product frequency, to reduce irritation. Available from premium brands, at retailers like Sephora, Ulta, and department stores.

Retinaldehyde:

This is the strongest OTC retinoid, and so also the most irritating. Use gentle, fragrance-free moisturizers and cleansers as part of your routine. Also available from premium brands.

Adapalene:

A retinoid for acne. It was prescription but it's now available over the counter as the brand name Differin. If you suffer from acne, this is the best OTC retinoid for you. It’s also a good starting point, as adapalene tends to be less irritating than other retinoids. You can get it at any drugstore. 

Retinoic acid:

This is the prescription stuff. You'll need to visit a dermatologist to get it. It gives you the most dramatic results, but it’s also very irritating at first. It works super well for anti-aging. And it will help you if your acne is cystic (painful under-the-skin bumps that don’t come to a head but scar anyway). Retinoic acid is available in topical and oral formulations. The oral formulation is the most potent and reserved only for severe acne cases. 

The percentages listed on the product tell you how much of the active ingredient is in there. And it can be kind of confusing, so that’s why it’s important to know what kind of retinoid the product contains. For instance, a 1% retinaldehyde is not as strong as a 1% prescription retinoic acid. Think of retinoids like strength training in the gym: over time you progress from weak to strong. Start at .25%, then .5%, then 1%.

How long before I see results?

It takes about 12 weeks of consistent use to see results. So don’t get discouraged if you don't see results right away. Skincare is a lot like exercising or eating healthy. Building consistency and good habits is key. 

Who can use retinoids?

Retinoids are for you if you’re in your mid-twenties or older and want to prevent or correct signs of aging. It’s also for you at any age if you suffer from acne. Essentially, if you’re a human being, and you want your skin to look better, incorporating one of these products is a good idea.

But, there is an important caveat: do not use retinoids while you’re pregnant or breastfeeding. Also, If you suffer from inflammatory skin conditions like rosacea, eczema, or psoriasis, consult with your doctor.

We hope this guide helped you understand what retinoids can do for you and how to use them! At Upkeep, we’re obsessed with all things beauty and skincare, and we want everyone to have high-quality info about these topics. Because informed women are powerful women. 

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