Upkeep’s Guide to Bakuchiol

If you’re into natural skincare and wellness, you’ve probably heard of bakuchiol recently as the ‘all natural’ alternative to retinol for anti-aging. But is this natural ingredient really a replacement for one of the most tried-and-true skincare ingredients out there? And are brands really being honest when they say it’s safer and gentler? We’re here to separate fact from fiction. 

Bakuchiol: where does it come from? 

Bakuchiol is an oil that comes from the seeds and leaves of the Psoralea corylifolia plant, which grows throughout the Indian subcontinent. It’s been used in Ayuvedic and traditional Chinese medicine as skincare for centuries. 

What does bakuchiol do? 

Bakuchiol is an antioxidant that neutralizes free radicals from the environment while targeting pathways in your skin associated with signs of aging. It has similar effects to retinol, because it regulates gene expression in skin. It visibly reduces discoloration, evens skin tone, and reduces the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. 

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The big benefit of bakuchiol is that it doesn’t cause the same dryness and irritation as retinol/vitamin A products. And that’s kind of a big deal, because the irritation and flakiness from retinol can be pretty intense, leading many people to avoid them or stop using them once these effects start. Which is understandable: it’s hard to believe your skin is going to look glowing and smooth when it currently looks and feels as rough as sandpaper. Bakuchiol offers an appealing alternative for those who don’t want to suffer through the initial peeling and irritation of retinol products.

When should I use bakuchiol in my skincare routine? 

One of the upsides of bakuchiol is that it’s easy and simple to work into your routine. Where it goes in your routine generally depends on the formula. If it’s a serum formula, it goes after the cleansing and exfoliating steps in your routine. If it’s a moisturizer, it goes on after your serum. And if it’s in an oil, you’re better off applying it last, after everything else. As always, keep up with daily SPF application. 

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Can bakuchiol be used with vitamin C or other skincare actives?

Bakuchiol and vitamin C can be used together, and they may even complement each other's benefits when used in a skincare routine. Vitamin C is a potent antioxidant that can help to brighten and even out the skin tone, as well as protect against environmental damage.

There is no evidence that Vitamin C or any other ingredient can make bakuchiol less effective. But we would advise against trying to use bakuchiol and traditional retinol at the same time–it just isn’t necessary and the combination together could be irritating.

Does bakuchiol really work? 

One thing to note about bakuchiol is that there isn’t as much scientific evidence behind it as retinol, which has been the subject of many studies. This means scientists are generally less confident about how effective bakuchiol is. However, early research is promising, with early research showing that bakuchiol was just as effective as retinol at reducing fine lines and skin discoloration.  

Can bakuchiol cause purging? 

Just like retinol, bakuchiol can cause purging, though it appears to be less common. Purging–which presents as blackheads, whiteheads, and other breakouts–can be a good sign because it means your skin is responding to retinol or bakuchiol. Think of it as your skin’s version of ‘spring cleaning’--sometimes things just have to get messy before they get clean. That being said, purging should only last 4-6 weeks at most–if it persists, discontinue use of bakuchiol and talk to a derm. 

Is bakuchiol pregnancy safe?

Despite what many brands say, there is currently very limited research around bakuchiol use while pregnant or breastfeeding. One study in the International Journal of Toxicology published in 2020 concluded that bakuchiol was safe for use in pregnancy–but this study tested rats and not humans, so that’s not the best standard for scientific evidence. However, there’s also no evidence to suggest that it’s harmful in pregnancy, either–whereas the risks of retinol use are better understood. So we don’t really know right now, which is why we definitely need more research. If you’ve been using bakuchiol and become pregnant, don’t panic–just talk to your doctor about it. 

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So to wrap up, bakuchiol is a promising alternative to retinol, but since it doesn’t have the same volume or quality of scientific evidence behind it, we don’t think of the two actives as apples-to-apples. TLDR? If retinol is just too irritating for you, or you want a naturally-derived alternative, give bakuchiol a try.

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