The 7 Best Treatments for Melasma

If you suffer from melasma, you probably have a hard time with the summer sun. Sun exposure is one of the things that can trigger melasma to resurface or get worse. You might be wondering if there’s anything you can do about your melasma, when all your derm has told you is to just stay out of the sun as much as possible. Are there any treatments that really work for melasma? Is there anything else you can do besides wearing giant hats? The short answer is yes. Here are some of the best options for you if melasma is a summer bummer. 

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What is melasma and what causes it? 

Melasma is a skin condition where there are patches that are darker than the rest of your skin tone. It’s most common in women and often surfaces in pregnancy or after taking hormonal contraception like the birth control pill. Other times the cause is not known. It’s more common in women with medium to dark skin tones. Sometimes melasma goes away after women give birth or stop taking birth control, but sometimes it comes back anyway. That’s why it’s important to start treating it as soon as possible so you can minimize its severity. 

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Tranexamic acid

What is tranexamic acid? We wrote a whole blog about it, which you can read here. To sum up, tranexamic acid was originally used in healthcare to stop excessive bleeding. But then scientists figured out it could also help with hyperpigmentation. It does this by interfering with melanin production. A major upside of tranexamic acid is that it doesn’t typically cause irritation, making it a good choice for people with melasma and sensitive skin. It’s easy to use and available in a serum format at a lot of different price points. 

Azelaic acid

Another acid that inhibits the production of melanin, azelaic acid works differently than tranexamic acid. It’s also used to treat acne and inflammatory conditions like rosacea. One upside of azelaic acid is that it’s known to be better for those with darker skin tones and melasma. It’s also safe for use in pregnancy, which is good because that is often when melasma first appears. 

Mandelic acid

Mandelic acid comes from bitter almonds and is an alpha hydroxy acid like glycolic and lactic. The big upside of mandelic acid is that it’s highly recommended for those with darker skin tones who want to improve uneven pigmentation. It’s gentler than glycolic acid, so it’s well tolerated by people with sensitive skin. Mandelic acid is becoming more popular, so it’s easy to find in serum or toner form. 

Retinoids

Retinoids are a must for treating melasma. This tried-and-true ingredient, also called Vitamin A, speeds up skin cell turnover and reduces the appearance of hyperpigmentation. A prescription version of Vitamin A, called Retin-A or tretinoin, is going to be the most effective. But you may not want to use it year round, because retinoids increase sun sensitivity and make you more prone to sunburn. You may decide not to use it during the dog days of summer. It can also be pretty irritating, and you’re likely to experience redness and peeling during the first month or so of use. Still, it’s an effective and reliable option that everyone with melasma should have in their arsenal. 

Niacinamide 

Niacinamide is a form of Vitamin B3 with several skin benefits, including improving skin texture, moisture barrier function, and uneven skin tone. Niacinamide prevents the formation of new dark patches while improving the appearance of ones that already exist. It is commonly used in combination with tranexamic acid. You’ll need it in a concentration of 5% and greater for best results. It’s suitable for all skin types, from oily to dry.  

Strict sun protection

Prevention is super important with melasma because unfortunately relapses are quite common. Being vigilant about sun protection is the most effective way to prevent melasma from getting worse. Always wear a broad spectrum SPF of at least 30, but the higher the better. Avoid sun exposure between 10AM and 4PM, wear hats and protective clothing, and seek shade wherever possible. Not only will this protect against melasma worsening or relapsing, it will also keep you from developing wrinkles from photoaging. Win-win. 

Chemical peels

If you’re looking to bring out the big guns and topical treatments aren’t doing the trick, you might want to look into chemical peels. Chemical peels have been around for a long time, and they’re just an intimidating-sounding name for “applying a resurfacing acid to the skin.” Chemical peels even out your skin tone, reduce hyperpigmentation, and can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. There are two types of peels that work for melasma: light peels and medium peels. Light peels, as you might guess, are less intense. The side effects are milder than medium peels, but you’ll need more light peel treatments for similar results. Medium peels are the opposite: you won’t need very many of these, but the redness and peeling afterwards typically require a few days of actual downtime. The results from chemical peels can be dramatic, but they are temporary, and you’ll need to get them repeatedly. 

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If you decide that chemical peels are part of your melasma treatment plan, you can book them with just a few taps in our Upkeep app. We designed it so that booking MedSpa treatments works with your schedule, so you can easily compare availability at the best MedSpas in your area instead of calling around and wasting time on hold. Download Upkeep today and take control of your melasma treatment plan.

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